Pro Climbing Shoes: What Top Athletes Wear

Climbing shoes are an essential part of a climber’s gear, and top athletes put a lot of thought into choosing the right shoes for their needs. From the hardest v17 boulders to 9c routes, climbers need shoes that offer maximum performance, comfort, and durability. In this article, we take a closer look at what some of the world’s top climbers use on their feet.

Shawn Raboutou, the world’s strongest outdoor boulderer, uses a combination of La Sportiva Solutions and Miuras. This combination is common among La Sportiva climbers, and you’ll often see them switching between the two shoes.

Jimmy Webb, the world’s best flash boulderer, is sponsored by Tenaya and wears their Mastias. However, Tenaya has recently launched a new flagship shoe.

Janja Garnbret, the Olympic gold medalist and greatest competition climber of all time, wears Five Ten Hiangle Pros. She uses the third version of the shoe, which comes in white or black, for both bouldering and sport climbing indoors and out.

Ai Mori, Janja’s biggest rival, wears La Sportiva Futura for bouldering. This No-Edge technology shoe has a little more leeway when placing your foot on indistinct holds or when smearing. Ai Mori switches to Solutions when lead climbing.

Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell, two of the world’s greatest free soloists, use La Sportiva TC Pros. Adam Ondra, the greatest climber of all time, uses La Sportiva Solution Comp for lead competitions and La Sportiva Theorys for bouldering. Seb Bouin, famous for sending DNA 9c, rocks a unique brand called EB Sentinel, which is more well known among the French climbing community.

Alex Megos uses Tenaya Iatis, and Chris Sharma is also a fan of the brand. Stefano Ghisolfi, who recently climbed Excalibur 9b+, uses La Sportiva Solution Comp and has the Miura in his arsenal. Jakob Shubert’s climbing shoe of choice is the La Sportiva Solution, with the updated model being his most used.

Tomoa Narasaki, the multiple world cup bouldering champion, uses Unparallel Flagships, despite the fact that TN Pros were made in his name. Meichi Narasaki, Tomoa’s brother, uses La Sportiva Theory in a unique burgundy color. Futaba Ito, who won the Japan Bouldering Cup, rocks La Sportiva Skwama or Theorys. Miho Nonaka recently switched from Tenaya to Five Ten, and Natalia Grossman, the overall world cup bouldering champion, wears Five Ten Hiangle Pros.

In conclusion, climbers put a lot of thought into their gear, and their choice of shoes can make a big difference in their performance. Whether it’s La Sportiva, Tenaya, Five Ten, or another brand, it’s interesting to see what the world’s top climbers use on their feet.

Increase your REACH as a short Climber: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7Fewv2pEdk&t=132s
Top Climbing Moments of 2022: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWadW8yEu0E&t=2s
Janja Garnbret Climber Profiles: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2T9q39-PZA&t=6s

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It matters a LOT what you are wearing while you are climbing. ⚡ Climbing shoes affect your climbing style, flow and feeling for the footholds. It is important to consider not only that a bad shoe might create a bad climber but also the wrong shoe for certain climbing styles is far from ideal.

Check the next video about the top 5 climbing shoes by @LaSportivaYT that I recommend.

ENGLISH SUBTITLES AVAILABLE IN THE VIDEO SETTINGS❗
ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA

Timecodes:

00:00 – Intro
01:14 – Solution
02:34 – Solution Comp
03:52 – Futura
04:53 – Mantra
05:32 – Theory
07:26 – Climb World Tour by La Sportiva
07:53 – Stefano Ghisolfi (La Sportiva athlete) – @steghiso
08:28 – Jakob Schubert – @JakobSchubertClimbing
09:30 – Outro

Climbing shoes I use in this video: La Sportiva Solution:
https://www.lasportiva.com/alpencore/geolocalize/url?type=product&sku=20g000100

Get yourself amazed by beautiful pictures in my photobook – AO Photo Book:
https://eshop.adamondra.com/p-ao-book

Have you seen this video of mine ?!

Thumbnail picture by: Petr Chodura

STORY BY
ADAM ONDRA
LA SPORTIVA

DIRECTED & EDITED BY
PAVEL KLEMENT

CAMERA
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DOLOMITI MEDIA HOUSE
NUNATAK FILM

FILMED AT
HUDY CLIMBING GYM BRNO
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ARCHIVE FOOTAGE
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PETR PAVLÍČEK
JAN ŠIMÁNEK
ENRICO VERONESE

PRODUCTION
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JAN VERNER
JAKUB PÍNA

SUBTITLES BY
JARKA MARČEKOVÁ

© ADAM ONDRA 2023

Songlist
Tellent Studio – Skyfall
Vesper Tapes – Moving In Patterns
Audio Tape – Lantern Light
Young Presidents – Elements Of Time

#climbing #climbingshoes #rockclimbing #lasportiva
@LaSportivaYT @hudysportcz
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Rockin’ Rock Climbing Commodities
Momentum Climbing Harness: http://amzn.to/1iN4Caq
La Sportiva Tarantulace Men’s Climbing Shoe: http://amzn.to/1FL2Qvz
La Sportiva Tarantulace Women’s Climbing Shoe: http://amzn.to/1UTo5SH
Half Dome Climbing Helmet: http://amzn.to/1QfLxZ8
Chalk Bag with Belt and Zippered Pocket: http://amzn.to/1OtW84a
REVERSO 4 Belay Device: http://amzn.to/1F170Vi

Watch more How to Rock Climb videos: http://www.howcast.com/videos/512706-How-to-Understand-Climbing-Grades-Rock-Climbing

So when you’re in a climbing gym you’re going to see lots of tape spread out all over the walls. All those pieces of tape are marking specific climbs, and those specific climbs are designed to start at the bottom of the wall and extend all the way to the top. The grading is different for whether or not you’re climbing a route or a boulder problem.

There are two scales that you’ll typically find in climbing gyms. When you’re bouldering most boulder problems are going to have what’s known as a V-grade. The V stands for Vermin. John the Verm Sherman is the gentleman who invented that systtem. Started down in Waco, Texas. There’s a big bouldering area there called the Waco Tanks which kind of gave birth to the V-scale as it’s known.

Bouldering grades begin at V0 and go all the way up to about V15 or V16 right now. Pretty substantial difference in the way each boulder problem progresses and the difficulties between a V1 and a V2, and a V2 and a V3. Also very subjective when you’re dealing with how to grade a boulder problem. Everybody climbs differently, lots of different body types, lots of different route setters.

So, although the grades should give you a pretty good idea about which climbs are harder than others, don’t ever be deterred about falling on a certain climb and then trying something harder because you fell on an easy one. Try all of them, and try everything that looks fun. Don’t be deterred by the grades. Just use them as a guide.

When you’re climbing routes the scale differs. Instead of seeing a V you’re going to see a 5 point something. Normally in climbing gyms the 5.4 or 5.3 will be an intermediate or beginner level climb. Now that’s kind of where the grading starts. This system is known as the Yosemite decimal system. It started in Yosemite, California.

So, moving from 5.3 up to about 5.9 is where you’ll have just a single number – 5.3, 5.4, 5.5, up to 5.9. Right around 5.10 climbs start to often integrate a letter as well. So you would have 5.10A, B, C, and D meaning that there are some subtle differences in whether or not it’s an easier 5.10 or maybe a more challenging 5.10.

Continuing on up the spectrum those numbers would go up to 5.15. Right now I think some of the hardest climbs established are around 5.15 B, maybe 5.15 C, but that’s all happening, for the most part, outside. In the climbing gym you won’t see much above 5.13. So really aim for the 5.3 to 5.6 as kind of your beginner level climbs, 5.7 to 5.9 would be an intermediate level, 5.10 and up is going to be pretty advanced.

But, once again, try everything that looks fun. Don’t hesitate to try a harder climb if you just fell on something easier. And all those pieces of tape that are on the wall are marking those specific routes for those specific grades. So following a single color is where that difficulty is going to come into play.

That’s how to understand climbing grades and a bit about the taping.
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